The Past is Present Enough
It’s difficult to write in the present tense when you’re developing film.
These photos are from the last days in Mexico; with boards packed away I had a well-spent Monday morning wander and finished a film in the AE-1 with an unpredictable 28mm lens.
If you Google it there are probably four thousand lineup shots of Zicatela on the internet, lucky number four thousand and one.
I don’t like to over document surfing but the preceding two days was something of a gift; the first real swell of the season and only handful of takers including Oscar, Dane Gudauskas, Reef McIntosh and Derek Dunfee. I rode a fresh but borrowed 8’0 and spent about six hours in the water across the two days with only two waves to show for it. Slow both days; the sand still wasn’t quite right, a little shifty and mostly lefts but absolutely worth every minute. What did Dane say? “It’s not all lefts out here…but I guess it doesn’t matter which way you go on a closeout.” I guess around the ten feet mark you should really start to avoid those with a little more conviction.
Do and see all your favourite Mexican things you can for now, then it’s taxis, hotels, flights, taxis, and more flights. Climb the American continent like a ladder until you’re home in the North. I can’t hardly wait.